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Zoysia may be used on residential lawns and common areas.

Lush, luxurious texture and look of northern-type barefoot lawn grass.

Can easily replace St. Augustine in residential lawns.

Deep, beautiful green color.

Shade tolerant for hard-to-landscape areas. Does well in areas that get less than ideal sunlight.

Fairly salt tolerant for less than ideal irrigation situations.

Fairly drought tolerant for areas where irrigation volume is an issue.

High traffic tolerance for areas where pedestrians walk, run or play.

Easy to maintain.

Tolerates most herbicide applications.

Can be mowed with a high-speed rotary or reel mower.

Chinch Bug Resistant!

Thatch Control

Thatch buildup is the most serious issue of Zoysia grass. Most thatch problems are due to improper mowing, fertilizing and watering. Frequent mowing at recommended heights, combined with clipping removal can help prevent thatch accumulation. Also avoid excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizer.

Soil and Fertilization Needs.

Soil desirable pH range is 6.5 to 7.5. make sure nitrogen source is organic or slow release. Use 3 pounds of nitrogen per square 1,000 per year.

Disease, Weed & Insect Control.

A well-maintained turf will provide the best weed control. Tolerates most herbicide applications. Lawns need to be fed to remain healthy and strong. Use a complete fertilizer in early April and early September. At other times of the year use a slow release fertilizer. If you need a quick green up, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen to promote a lush green lawn. In heat of summer avoid over fertilizing or using manure based products. Pest – watch for lawn grub and African black beetle – apply suitable pesticides according to directions. Fungi – watch for brown patch or gray leaf spot – apply systemic fungicide.

Weeds- if weeds infest, hand eradicate before seed head develops or apply suitable weedicide.


Water thoroughly and regularly after being laid to encourage a deep and rigorous root. Once rooted water thoroughly only when needed (when a slight wilting is visible). Usually once every 7-10 days in summer and much less or no water in cooler months. Remember that infrequent, deep watering promotes a healthy lawn. Over watering encourages excessive growth, disease, and root rot.

It is best to water in the early morning, night watering is not recommended.



Do not fertilize for 30 days. After 30 days - Select a fertilizer that is labeled for use on St. Augustine lawns. Do not apply fertilizer to wet turf to avoid burning. Too much fertility will result in disease and a thatchy and unhealthy lawn.


Do not cut for 30 days . After 30 days - Mow between 2 and 3 inches high. Catch and remove clippings. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf at any one cutting. Always use a sharp blade. Best mowed with a rotary mower.


Water your new sod 30 minutes for 30 days. After 30 days St. Augustine prefers infrequent deep watering. Do not over-water (avoid standing water for any period of time). Irrigate to relieve drought stress.

Thatch Removal

Periodically it may be necessary to rake heavily to remove accumulated thatch and debris. This is best accomplished in April or May. Fertilizer is recommended after thatch removal.


The use of a pre-emerge herbicide, recommended for use on St. Augustine lawns on the label, is strongly recommended in the spring.


Pests may become a problem, especially if St. Augustine is not growing in a healthy way - too much or too little fertilizer or water, etc. If pests persist, contact a local nursery owner and ask for assistance in identification of the problem and the recommended control. 

*For shade tolerant sod put down a fungicide after 2 weeks of new sod.

*If we cut out crab grass or bermuda, put down a pre-emerge within 30 days.